Salento or Filandia: where to stay?

Two villages, two atmospheres

From a distance, Salento and Filandia look alike: houses with wooden balconies painted in bright colours, a central square, cafés and the mountains all around. They sit at almost the same altitude, about 30 minutes’ drive from each other. And yet the experience is quite different.

Salento is the better known of the two, the one you see in every photo of Quindío. Filandia is calmer, more focused on the everyday life of its residents. The choice mostly depends on what you want from your days and your evenings.

Salento: at the foot of the Cocora Valley

Salento sits at about 1,895 m and has around 9,700 inhabitants. It is cool: around 17 °C on average, with evenings when a jumper is welcome.

Its great asset is its location. The Cocora Valley is about 12 km away, and the Willys jeeps go straight up from the main square in 20 to 30 minutes. If the wax palms are the heart of your trip, staying in Salento lets you get there early, before the crowds.

In the village, a few must-sees:

• Calle Real, the main street, with its colourful façades, craft shops and cafés.
• The Mirador Alto de la Cruz, at the top of about 250 steps, for a view over the village and the mountains.
• Trout on patacón, the dish you will be offered everywhere: about 28,000 COP a plate (2026 prices checked in October 2026, check on site).

The flip side: Salento is very busy at weekends and on public holidays. The streets fill up, and you sometimes have to wait for a Willys to Cocora. On weekdays, the atmosphere is much more relaxed.

After the earthquake of 10 August 2026, Salento had no restrictions, and tourism resumed within two days. The Cocora Valley and its Willys are running normally.

Filandia: the quieter village

Filandia is slightly higher, at about 1,910 m, and has around 12,600 inhabitants. It averages about 18 °C. It is our village, one of our two starting points, and we love it for its pace: calmer, more authentic, with residents who live in their village rather than a stage set.

What you will find there:

• The basketry of the San José neighbourhood, where the baskets that made the village famous are still woven.
• The Calle del Tiempo Detenido, the “street where time stood still”, to stroll without hurrying.
• Sunsets over the hills, to enjoy from the upper parts of the village.

An important note: since the earthquake of 10 August 2026, the Mirador Colina Iluminada has been closed, as has the Casa del Artesano. Their demolition was announced and then suspended on 27 September 2026 pending studies, and part of the main park remains off limits. So do not plan a visit to the viewpoint: the rest of the village is easy to explore on foot.

Filandia has another practical advantage: it is the closest village to Pereira airport, about 35 to 45 minutes by car. If you land at Matecaña, you will be settled in quickly. We cover that journey in Pereira airport to Salento and Filandia.

Quimbaya, as a bonus

People think less about Quimbaya, which is a shame. The town lies lower, at about 1,340 m, and is warmer: around 21 °C on average. No need for a jumper in the evening.

Quimbaya is very close to PANACA and the region’s other theme parks, which makes it an ideal base with children. It is also one of our two starting points, along with Filandia. Good to know: the Quimbaya basilica has been closed since the earthquake. If you are travelling as a family, also read our article Quindío with kids.

What kind of accommodation?

In all three villages, you will find roughly the same kinds of places to stay:

• Hostels, often in traditional houses, handy for solo travellers and smaller budgets.
• Hotels, from the small village hotel to more comfortable addresses, often a short walk from the square.
• Fincas, country houses surrounded by coffee or greenery, a few minutes from the village: more peace and nature, but a little less freedom without a vehicle.

Prices vary a lot with the season and the day of the week. During Colombian holidays, long weekends and festivals, book early: the best places go quickly, especially in Salento.

Our tips for choosing

• You want to see Cocora at sunrise: Salento.
• You are looking for peace and a village atmosphere: Filandia.
• You are arriving at Pereira airport: Filandia.
• You are travelling with children or want to enjoy the parks: Quimbaya.
• You are staying five days or more: why not two bases, a few nights in Salento, then a few nights in Filandia or Quimbaya. Our article How many days in Colombia’s coffee region? helps you split your stay.

And for our tours?

Good news: you do not have to choose your accommodation around us. Our tours leave every day from Quimbaya or Filandia, with a hotel pick-up and a tinto with Daniel at the start. If you are staying in Armenia or Pereira, a pick-up is available as an option.

To see both villages in a single day, our Salento, Filandia and Cocora by Willys tour links the palm valley, Salento and Filandia. And if you are staying in Filandia or Quimbaya but want to see the valley, Cocora + Salento takes you there without changing hotels.

Still unsure? Write to us: we will tell you honestly which village suits you best.

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