The mountain villages: Córdoba, Pijao, Buenavista

When people talk about Quindío, they think first of Salento, Filandia and the wax palms of Cocora. Yet in the south of the department there is another Quindío: quieter, greener, more mountainous. The villages of Córdoba, Pijao and Buenavista cling to the first slopes of the Andes, among coffee plants, guadua bamboo and rivers.

There is no queue for the photo here. On the square, older residents chat over a coffee, Willys jeeps loaded with sacks head up to the fincas, and people greet you because you are passing through. Here is what we love about each of these three villages, and how to discover them.

The road to southern Quindío

From Armenia, you take the road towards Caicedonia. After the flat stretch, the climb to Pijao begins at Río Verde, and the landscape changes all at once: bend follows bend, fincas perch on the ridges and the valley opens up below you.

The three villages are close to one another. By car from Armenia, allow roughly:

• Córdoba: 40 minutes
• Buenavista: 45 minutes
• Pijao: 50 minutes

From Pereira it takes longer: about 1 hour 25 minutes to Córdoba, 1 hour 40 to Buenavista and 1 hour 45 to Pijao. If you are staying in the north of the department, in Filandia or Quimbaya, it is better not to drive these mountain roads yourself, and to let the Willys do the work.

Córdoba, the guadua village

Córdoba is a small village of about 5,900 people, sitting at around 1,525 m. Its great pride is guadua, the giant bamboo that grows all over Quindío. Local craftspeople turn it into musical instruments and furniture, and every June the village celebrates it with the Bambú y Guadua festival.

On the square, do not leave without trying the homemade kumis, a creamy, slightly tangy fermented milk. It is the perfect break after the drive.

Close by, Río Verde is known for its three waterfalls. It is a quiet rural settlement between the mountains and the river, where people come for the cool water and the calm.

Pijao, the village that takes its time

Pijao is a village apart. Since 2014 it has been the first village in Latin America to join the Cittaslow network, the international “slow town” movement that champions quality of life, local produce and heritage. With about 5,400 people and an altitude of around 1,650 m, it has kept a peaceful, almost timeless atmosphere.

The heart of the village is Plaza Bolívar, lined with bahareque houses, the traditional building technique using wood, guadua and earth, with colourful balconies. Take the time to sit down with a tinto and watch village life go by.

For the view, head up to the La Mariela viewpoint. Well prepared hikers also know the Chilí páramo, which rises to about 3,750 m: it is a real mountain expedition, to be arranged separately with a local guide.

At the table, try Pijao's typical dish: lengua en salsa criolla, beef tongue slowly cooked in a tomato and onion sauce.

Important: some buildings in Pijao, including the church, were damaged by the earthquake of 10 August 2026. Check locally what can be visited, and respect any closed areas.

Buenavista, Quindío's balcony

Buenavista lives up to its name, which means “good view”. This small village of about 3,200 people, at around 1,480 m, owes its name to its viewpoint, which looks out over Quindío and the north of Valle del Cauca. On a clear day, the view stretches far across the hills, coffee plants and villages.

Our tip: the view is often clearest in the late afternoon, when the mist lifts. If you arrive in the morning and everything is white, do not be disappointed: the mountain likes to play hide and seek, and the scene can change within minutes.

Buenavista also draws thrill seekers: paragliding takes off from the Cerro de las Tres Cruces. The village lives from coffee, and several fincas offer coffee tours. In May, a fair celebrates the region's speciality coffees.

Good to know: at the end of September 2026, there were roadworks on part of the access road to Buenavista. Allow some extra time, and check before you set off if you are driving yourself.

What makes these villages different

What strikes you in southern Quindío is how genuine it all feels. These villages have not reinvented themselves for tourists. The colourful houses are lived in, the cafés on the square serve local people first, and Willys jeeps still carry coffee and goods up to the fincas.

Visiting them is also another way to support the region after the August 2026 earthquake. To find out what is open elsewhere in Quindío, read our full update on the coffee region after the earthquake.

Our Mountain Villages Route by Willys

To discover these villages without worrying about the road, we created the Mountain Villages Route. Daniel, our willysero, takes you by Jeep Willys to Buenavista, Pijao, Córdoba and Río Verde. Lunch, coffee and forcha, the traditional drink of the mountains, are included. In Río Verde, a horse ride is available as an option.

The tour leaves every day from Quimbaya or Filandia, with a tinto shared with Daniel before you climb into the Willys. If you are staying in Armenia or Pereira, we can pick you up as an option, for 150,000 COP per group. And if you would like the commentary in French, add our French-speaking guide.

Would you rather design your own route, for example to be in Buenavista in the late afternoon? The Private Willys for the day gives you complete freedom: 650,000 COP per Willys, 8 hours, up to 8 people.

Our practical tips

• Bring a warm layer: the higher you go, the cooler it gets, especially at the end of the day.
• Go at the local pace: you do not come here to tick boxes, but to sit on a square and take your time.
• Check road conditions before you set off, especially towards Buenavista.

Planning a longer trip? Our guide to Quindío in 3 days shows you how to fit the mountain villages into your itinerary.

Plan your tour in a few taps, we confirm the date on WhatsApp.